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the dry season by raft. Every year before they leave, however, they chop down balsa trees and leave them to dry and be ready for the following year. Once you make it to Curiplaya, all you'll have to do is find some panchos and put together a small raft from the dry logs. From there on, the river is nice and smooth, and you shouldn't have any problems.

‘If you do build a raft in Curiplaya, don't forget to cut down balsa trees to replace the ones you take. It isn't hard work, and it's only fair to the villagers. If you like, you can even pan for a little gold in Curiplaya. If you have a good look around, you'll find digging tools and bateas. The miners leave everything there. And there's also a banana grove there and good fishing.’

Kevin had little patience. ‘Karl, stick to the point. How will we know for sure where to stop before entering the canyon, and where should we look for the trail?’

‘Take it easy, Kevin,’ Karl laughed. ‘Yossi, you'll have to watch that he doesn't go over the speed limit on the river.’

He marked our position on the map he had drawn and drew a line representing the Tuichi.

‘This is the river. From here on it's rough going, but if you're willing to risk going by raft, it will save you two days of walking. You can't miss the mouth of the canyon. You'll see a big island covered with tall trees right in the middle of the river. On your left you'll see a narrow shore. That's